CHOOSING THE PROPER CLUTCH
 

 

TORQUE CAPACITY

89-99 AWD DSM:  The factory rated the AWD transmission for roughly 250ft.lbs of torque. This is where there won’t be a failure of gear teeth pretty much regardless of how many cycles the parts is subjected to, assuming that transmissions is in good working condition. Commonly referred to as the fatigue limit, this torque rating is determined by the overall design of the transmission, gears, shafts, shaft spacing, structural integrity of the transmission case, size & capacity of bearings, the choice of steel being used to manufacture the gears, tooth count, helix & pressure angles, the manufacture's ability to hold tolerance on the parts and to what AGMA or DIN that they cared to produce in the first place and so on and so on and then ultimately by doing destructive load testing, both static and dynamic. We have had several burn offs done to know what choice of steel Mitsubishi has used in their drive-train products and have built load cells to conduct destructive testing to determine the amount torque at which plastic deformation occurs. We have measured shaft flex and how much axial deflection the transmission case has in relation to how many ft.lbs of torque in each gear, paid for FEA's and have defined the S/N curve. Are the other shops doing their homework or are they merely claiming some HP numbers?

Our torque ratings are conservative and the above text is merely the tip of the iceberg of what should be done when calculating realistic probability of survival when it comes to answering the infamous “how much torque is it rated for” question. Simply put, if the transmission parts are the OEM ones that you can buy directly from Mitsubishi, the fatigue limit is roughly 250ft.lbs of torque. Yes you can put more torque into the transmission but the overall life expectancy of the transmission will be shortened accordingly. The most torque that can realistically be put into the transmission without gear failure is 375ft.lbs. of torque. For the daily driver who street races and occasionally goes to the drag strip I would look for a clutch that holds around 450ft.lbs of torque. Sure you can put over 600ft.lbs of torque through the transmission but don't expect it to last forever regardless of who builds it. It should be noted that a customer has successfully put 645ft.lbs of torque through our transmission for quite some time,  2 seasons of drag racing, but it is expected that fatigue cycle failure will eventually happen because the factory parts were never designed to handle this kind of power for very long.

We have done destructive load cell testing on the DSM transmission. Listed below are the average peak torque numbers at which failure occurred immediately during a static load test of a new AWD transmission. While the numbers may appear to be impressive, understand that failure was immediate and that the dynamic numbers would be substantially lower.

  1. 1st gear = 1125ft.lbs

  2. 2nd gear = 1240ft.lbs

  3. 3rd gear = 1300ft.lbs*

  4. 4th gear = NA*

  5. 5th gear = NA*

* Input shaft splines began to yield at approximately 1300ft.lbs

To put things into perspective, a new off the shelf 4th gear & intermediate shaft from Mitsubishi has an approximate service life of less than 1 hour or 10,000 cycles when 450ft.lbs of continuous torque is going into the transmission.

We recommend using a clutch that holds around 10-15% more torque than your engine can produce but no more than half of the dynamic burst torque of the transmission or you will be substantially reducing the service life of the transmission. 

89-99 FWD DSM:  I have not done testing on the FWD transmission. However, a customer reported making over 600ft.lbs of torque is using one of our FWD transmissions for the past two years without failure. How long will it last, we don't know but I believe it to have a similar torque capacity and fatigue cycles as the AWD.

EVO:  The EVO is a production version of Mitsubishi's famed rally car and while many people tend to think of it as the ultimate drag racer it was not designed for it. While 5 speed transmission is very capable, having a fatigue limit around 380ft.lbs of torque, you will want to be careful when you dump the clutch because the strain that is placed on the drivetrain can fatigue critical parts. These parts are: 1st gear, input shaft and  transfer shaft.  Don't dump the clutch too aggressively and you'll be fine. Also, keep in mind that more is not always better; using a clutch that is capable of holding way more torque than what need will only reduce the service life of the gearing. I recommend not using a clutch that holds more than 575ft.lbs of torque due to the limitations of the rest of the drivetrain.

Use caution with the 6 speed transmission that was used in the 05-06 EVO as the rated fatigue limit is just under 290ft.lbs of torque. I do not recommend using a clutch that holds more than 400ft.lbs of torque if you are wanting to get the most life out of it.

TYPES OF CLUTCHES

OEM: OEM style clutches are designed for daily drivers who are looking for the longest clutch life. The torque capacity is carefully chosen and designed to slip before parts break.  Sprung hub type clutch discs are good because they reduce transmission chatter from the 4th order harmonics of the engine but the the springs can get damaged from hard clutch dumps. Sprung hubs are not designed strong enough to cushion the drivetrain from shock loads. To avoid damaging the sprung hub assembly one must learn the classic slip-dump method.

RACE: Torque capacity is as high as you dare to use and you should carefully make your decision when choosing the torque capacity. Racing type clutches are intended for hard core racers, where all that matters is winning the race and rebuilding or replacing them often is part of the game, not daily drivers where it needs to last tens of thousands of miles. If you drive it on the street you should consider using a full face organic clutch disc for longer service life. Puck style clutch discs can be used in a daily driver but don't expect it to last more than a couple seasons at best.

 

RULE OF THUMB:  THE CLUTCH IS SUPPOSE TO SLIP BEFORE DRIVETRAIN PARTS BREAK. IF YOU DRIVE IT ON THE STREET, USE A CLUTCH THAT IS SIMILAR TO THE ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT, IE FULL FACE ORGANIC CLUTCH DISC.  RACING TYPE CLUTCHES ARE FOR RACE CARS, NOT DAILY DRIVERS. CHOOSE YOUR CLUTCH WISELY AND REMEMBER THE MORE YOU ABUSE IT THE SOONER THEY WEAR OUT.

 © 2008 TRE